Faggots & peas

A butcher’s classic

Faggots were made by butchers to use every part of the pig, and in the market towns and valleys of south Wales they were sold hot, ready to take home with a jug of gravy. The liver gives them their rich, slightly earthy flavour; the pork mince keeps them juicy. Traditionally each faggot was wrapped in caul fat, a thin lacy membrane that holds the shape and bastes the meat as it bakes. It is worth asking a butcher for it, but the recipe below works without it.

The peas are marrowfat peas, dried, soaked overnight and simmered until they collapse into a soft, thick purée.

Prep

30 mins, plus overnight soaking for the peas

Cook

1 hr 15 mins

Serves

4 (8 faggots)

Good for

A cold weekday evening

What you’ll need

Tick things off as you go.

• For the peas: 250 g dried marrowfat peas and 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
• 250 g pig’s liver, trimmed of any tubes
• 250 g pork mince (about 20% fat)
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 100 g fresh breadcrumbs
• 1 tsp dried sage, or 1 tbsp chopped fresh sage
• ¼ tsp ground mace or nutmeg
• ½ tsp salt and plenty of black pepper
• Caul fat (optional), soaked in cold water
• For the gravy: 2 onions, thinly sliced; 1 tbsp oil; 1 tbsp plain flour; 500 ml beef or chicken stock

Take your time

1. Soak the peas. The night before, put the peas in a large bowl with the bicarbonate of soda, cover with plenty of boiling water and leave to soak overnight.
2. Make the mixture. Heat the oven to 180°C fan (200°C conventional, gas 6). Finely chop or briefly pulse the liver in a food processor. Mix it with the pork mince, onion, breadcrumbs, sage, mace, salt and pepper until evenly combined.
3. Shape the faggots. With wet hands, shape into 8 balls. If using caul fat, wrap each ball in a piece large enough to cover it. Pack them snugly into an ovenproof dish and bake, uncovered, for 20 minutes until browned.
4. Make the gravy. Meanwhile, cook the sliced onions in the oil over a medium heat for 15 minutes, until soft and golden. Stir in the flour, then gradually add the stock and simmer for 5 minutes.
5. Bake in the gravy. Pour the gravy around the faggots, cover with foil, lower the oven to 160°C fan (180°C conventional) and bake for 40 minutes, until cooked through with no pink in the centre (75°C on a thermometer).
6. Cook the peas. Drain and rinse the soaked peas, cover with fresh water in a pan, bring to the boil and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring often, until soft and mushy. Season and serve with the faggots and gravy.

Handling the liver

Liver is easier to chop when very cold. Put it in the freezer for 20 minutes before you start. Cut out any white tubes or tough membrane with a small knife. Wash your hands, boards and knives well after handling raw liver and pork.

Cooking them through

Because faggots are made from minced pork and offal, they must be cooked right through. Check the largest one: cut it open to make sure there is no pink, or use a probe thermometer, which should read at least 75°C in the centre. The long, gentle bake in gravy makes sure of this while keeping them moist.

The peas

Bicarbonate of soda softens the skins of the dried peas so they break down into a smooth purée. Rinse the peas well after soaking. Stir them often as they simmer, adding a splash of water if they catch on the base of the pan. Season with salt only at the end, with a knob of butter if you like.

Serving and storing

Serve with the peas and a pile of mashed or boiled potatoes, plus plenty of gravy. Cooked faggots keep in their gravy, covered, in the fridge for up to 2 days, or can be frozen for up to 2 months. Reheat until piping hot throughout. If a slow-cooked pot is more your style, the lamb and leek cawl is another dish that tastes even better the next day.