Under the grill · Lunch for 2 to 4
Welsh rarebit
A rarebit is cheese on toast with ambition. Instead of slices of cheese, the toast is spread with a thick, savoury sauce of cheese, ale and mustard, then grilled until it puffs, bubbles and turns golden in patches.
More than cheese on toast
The name has been argued over for centuries, and the dish was once called "Welsh rabbit", although there has never been any rabbit in it. What matters is the method. Melting the cheese into a little roux with ale makes a sauce that spreads easily, stays creamy under the grill and does not separate into oil and rubbery cheese.
Use a cheese with plenty of flavour. A mature Cheddar gives a strong, sharp rarebit; Caerphilly is milder and saltier and browns beautifully. A mix of the two is excellent.
What you’ll need
Tick things off as you go.
Take your time
- Make a roux. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute, stirring, until it smells nutty but has not coloured.
- Add the ale. Gradually whisk in the ale, a little at a time, until smooth. Simmer for 2 minutes, stirring, until thick.
- Melt in the cheese. Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the mustard, Worcestershire sauce and a good grind of pepper, then the cheese, until melted and smooth. Leave to cool for 5 minutes, then beat in the egg yolk, if using. The mixture will thicken to a spreadable paste.
- Toast the bread. Heat the grill to high. Toast the bread on both sides until lightly golden.
- Spread and grill. Spread the cheese mixture thickly over the toast, right to the edges so the crusts do not burn. Grill for 3 to 4 minutes, about 10 cm from the heat, until bubbling and browned in patches. Serve hot.
The right bread
Rarebit needs bread that can hold a heavy topping without going soggy. A thick slice of farmhouse white, sourdough or a good wholemeal works well. Toast both sides first: the underside stays crisp, and the top gives the sauce a firm base.
Ale, stout or milk
A light ale makes a mellow rarebit; a dark ale or stout gives a deeper, slightly bitter edge that suits a strong Cheddar. If you would rather not cook with ale, use milk instead and add an extra half teaspoon of mustard for bite. Either way, let the sauce simmer long enough to cook out the floury taste.
Making it ahead
The cheese mixture keeps in the fridge, covered, for up to 3 days. It firms up when chilled, which makes it easy to spread. Take it out of the fridge for 15 minutes before using. This is handy for a quick lunch: toast, spread, grill and eat within ten minutes.
Serving ideas
A rarebit is good on its own, with a sharp green salad or a few pickled onions. Topped with a poached egg it becomes a "buck rarebit". Some people add a spoonful of softened leeks under the cheese, which leads naturally to the lighter version below. It also makes a fine partner for a bowl of leek and potato soup on a cold day. For another Welsh dish built on cheese and leeks, try Glamorgan sausages.
