From the frying pan · Makes 8
Glamorgan sausages
There is no meat in a Glamorgan sausage, and there never has been. These crisp, golden fingers are made from crumbly cheese, soft leeks and fresh breadcrumbs, seasoned with mustard and herbs, then fried until the outside crackles.
A Welsh classic without the meat
Glamorgan sausages, or selsig Morgannwg, take their name from the county in south Wales where they were first made. Early versions used a local cheese from Glamorgan cattle; today Caerphilly is the usual choice, with its fresh, slightly salty flavour and crumbly texture that binds well with breadcrumbs.
They are simple to make, but they need a short rest in the fridge before cooking. Chilling firms the mixture so the sausages keep their shape in the pan.
What you’ll need
Tick things off as you go.
Take your time
- Soften the leek. Melt the butter in a small pan over a low heat. Add the leek and cook gently for 5 to 6 minutes, until soft but not browned. Leave to cool.
- Make the mixture. In a bowl, combine the 150 g breadcrumbs, cheese, parsley, thyme and the cooled leek. Season with a little salt and plenty of pepper. Stir the mustard into the beaten egg and yolk, then add to the bowl and mix until everything holds together when squeezed.
- Shape. Divide into 8 equal pieces and roll each into a sausage about 10 cm long. If the mixture is sticky, wet your hands slightly.
- Coat and chill. Dip each sausage in the egg white, then roll in the coating crumbs. Lay on a plate, cover and chill for at least 30 minutes.
- Fry. Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Fry the sausages for 8 to 10 minutes, turning regularly, until crisp and golden all over and hot through. Drain on kitchen paper and serve hot.
Breadcrumbs make the difference
Use fresh breadcrumbs from a loaf that is a day or two old, made in a food processor or on a coarse grater. Shop-bought dried crumbs make the mixture too dry inside; keep those for the coating, where they give extra crunch. Leave the crusts on for a slightly firmer texture.
Why the leek must be fine
Large pieces of leek push the mixture apart and the sausages can split in the pan. Chop it as finely as you can and cook it until really soft. It should almost melt into the cheese and crumbs.
Frying without falling apart
A steady medium heat is best. If the oil is too hot, the coating darkens before the cheese inside has warmed through; too cool, and the sausages soak up oil. Turn them gently with tongs, a quarter turn at a time. Chilling is the step that keeps them whole, so do not skip it.
What to serve with them
Glamorgan sausages are good for supper with mashed potatoes and onion gravy, or with a tomato salad and some chutney. They also make a lovely lunch tucked into a soft roll. Leftovers can be reheated in a hot oven for 10 minutes. For more ways with leeks and Caerphilly, try the Caerphilly and leek tart or a cheesy Welsh rarebit.
Making them ahead
The shaped, coated sausages keep in the fridge for up to 24 hours before frying. They can also be frozen, uncooked, on a tray and then bagged; defrost in the fridge overnight before cooking as above.
